THE FULL MOON OF WASO

It sounds like the title of a 2-disc space opera rock concept album, and may be it is unreleased by one of the great Burmese metal bands. To my knowledge, "The full moon of Waso", celebrated at Dhammasekya Day, marks the start of a special season in the year all over Myanmar that commemorates the time when the Buddha gave his first sermon to five monks.

Official astrologists have announced that this year 2014, the full moon on the Burmese Lunar Calendar will be on 11th July. Pilgrims throughout the country will gather wild flowers to offer at pagodas, and offer new robes to monks who embark on a period of confinement to their monastery, as per the Buddhist code of conduct, to follow a the 3-month long Lent.

Apparently, the code dates back to when a group of monks, set out on a journey to pay Buddha their respect, walked across cultivated fields, spoiling the crops and insects unintentionally. A law was passed forbidding monks to travel more than a night during the three months of the monsoon rains (season for seeding and transplanting in the fields). That started the rain-retreat: the Buddhist Lent.

So this year, they will miss the Germany-Argentina final of the World Cup 2014. But I guess it is okay, since they will devote their times to higher ground realities, through meditation and practicing the Buddha's teachings.

In Myanmar, the Lent will last until the full moon of Thadingyut, celebrated by the Lighting Festival, the second most popular festival after Thingyan (the water festival, see the post in this blog). During Thadingyut festival, all will celebrate the Buddha’s descent from the heaven after he preached the Abhidhamma to his mother, Maya, who was reborn in the heaven.

MINIATURE EARTH [VIDEO]

Running through my previous blog articles, I stumbled upon a post on this 2005 video by Brazilian designer Allyson Lucca. Figures have not been updated since 2010, but are still eye opening... The Millennium Development Goals (MDG) have galvanised unprecedented efforts to meet the needs of the world's poorest by 2015. But it won't be enough, so what is next? The ramified complexity of our modern global village is so intricate that the greatest technical experts are left perplexed. Should it stop us from adopting the low-tech approach: gratitude, compassion, altruism, love...?

ORWELL'S BURMESE DAYS

In 1934, in his first novel, George Orwell, who was then a British colonial policeman posted in Burma, wrote about a town in the North of the country that it had "not changed greatly between the days of Marco Polo and 1910". What would he think of today's Myanmar? Orwell had trouble releasing the book in the 30's because some fictitious characters of Burmese Days had so much resemblance with some real individuals. An example: the book's super-villain is a local magistrate, U Po Kyin, who supplements his meager salary by accepting bribes from all parties, practice which is referred to as taking "tea money". This is, of course, a fictitious character portrayed 80 years ago; and no analogy can be drawn to cases of corruption in recent political times. Still, the author would probably be astonished to learn that his book is now translated into Burmese and that it won a Government Award for literature in 2013. As they say: it's not the country it ought to be, but it's not the country it used to be...

Read Burmese Days online (courtesy from the The University of Adelaide Library).

THE LION OF BURMA

A few months ago, I was compelled to write about a young Kenyan who ended his life after he saw his favorite soccer team lose at the English Premiere League. Like with every religion, football has its extremists. And like with every religion, it is bound to emulate new followers worldwide, especially in territories with a growing economy. So it is no surprise to see that soccer is conquering hearts and minds in former Burma. Far from the spotlights of the World Cup, the Yangon United Football Club, also called The Lions, are building their reputation in the local leagues. Sponsored by Air Bagan and AGD Bank, YUFC is owned by Tay Za, a prominent Burmese businessman with as much a bad reputation with the USA and the EU as an immense respect from his loyal 40,000 full-time staffers (Htoo Group, Air Bagan, tourism, infrastructure, mobile phone services are part of his commendable portfolio).

Founded in 2009, the YUFC is one of the nine professional football clubs competing for the Myanmar National League (MNL) title and has rapidly ascended to secure their first ever championship in 2011 and 2012, and qualifying for the 2013 AFC Cup (but didn't pass the Round 16 against East Bengal FC). These wins are attribuable to the vision of its owner. Tay Za dreams big for his team, and has all the business connections to make it happen. During the 2010 season, he built them an artificial turf football pitch and a top class gymnasium, making it the first gym among the Myanmar National League clubs. He recruited foreign players: defender Alexander (5), strikers Sezar (13) and Emerson Luiz (20). He launched the club's Google App of YUFC, upgraded the website and Facebook page, and produced loads of merchandise. This is football business model by the book. And Tay Za rules.

The portrait of the businessman wouldn't be complete without mentioning the charity work that Tay Za and his companies provided in emergency relief supplies to the survivors of Cyclone Nargis in Bogalay Township, Ayeyarwady Region. His company spent over US$ 8.0 million for the reconstruction of schools, hospitals, monasteries, and government offices in Bogalay Township (at a time when Myanmar was under sanctions). He established Htoo Foundation to conduct and assist in health, education, culture, regional development, preservation of the national habitat and offer emergency assistance if a natural disaster should occur. Htoo Foundation is now actively participating in humanitarian works and providing help in the promotion of education, culture, health care and regional development in remote areas of the country. Htoo Foundation established vocational schools in remote areas and is helping to promote the living standards of the local people by creating job opportunities for them.

For soccer, as with every religion, past the realm of idols and followers (and the idiocracy that lead kenyans and other fanatics to end their life for a team's lost game in a televised sport competition), there is the stark reality of business conglomerates or moguls. The pages of tabloids and newspapers of Europe are filled with articles about dubious investors, scandals about club buy-outs by exotic billionaires. And Myanmar has its own Bernard Tapie. Tay Za is a character bigger than life, on top of the food chain, the archetypical winner. He is the Lion of Burma.

ZARNI PHYO - PEOPLE OF THE RIVER

There is an undocumented world along the river banks that separates the city of Yangon City from nearby Dala. Myanmar Times photographer Zarni Phyo exhibits fifteen black-and-white photographies capturing the daily lives of the people whose livelihood depends on the Yangon and Bago rivers, taken as part of a project for the International Reportage 2014 Workshop.

Interviewed by Myanmar Times colleague Zon Pann Pwint, the acclaimed photographer shares his experience: “The daily wages of the workers who depend on the Yangon River are so small, despite the risks they face. They are always close to danger. Divers salvaging sunken ships can die if something happens to their oxygen pipe. Ferry boatmen run the risk of collision with larger vessels as they cross between Yangon and Dala. But they earn only K60,000 to K100,000 a month” (under $100).

With each shot, we are not only impressed by Zarni Phyo's evident professional eye and talent. What grabs us is the raw reality surrounding the river people, and the effort of the artist to immerse himself (and us with him) in the textures of this world. “Dala township and Yangon city are separated by the Yangon River, not a great distance, but the difference in development is great.” says the artist. And this difference, contrasted like his beautiful pictures, will leave you feeling... muddy.

The River People is open at the Witness Yangon Documentary Art Space until July 18th, 2014.

STREET BOOK STORES

 The streets of downtown Yangon are like an 24/7 open market. You want to buy a pair of pliers? You need a new set of flip-flops? You have to get one of these plastic-antique golden-sprayed wall clocks? Chances are you will find an abundance of selection from street vendors at a bargain. But the city's informal trade caters for cultural products too: music, movies and books...

If you're desperate for something to read, you might want to take a wander along Bogyoke Aung San Road about the region of 30th Street. It's not just the strip where all the cinemas are, it's also the spot to put your hands on second hand books. The majority of them are in Burmese, some are well crafted photocopy replicas, and occasionally one can find a few English titles. These will most likely be classics in rather tattered paperback form as well as reproductions of soft cover editions (the print shops that do these have mastered the art of forging pocket books, it's quite amazing).

Even if you are not buying, it's an interesting place for a browse through the titles dumped over plastic sheets, or arranged on shelves, depending on the (street) book store.

WHO DO YOU PRAY TO?

Praying at the Shwedagon Pagoda.

In Myanmar, Buddhist temples are always open, and many people go in during the day. They bring flowers or gift baskets, light a candle or burn incense and pour water over the Buddha's statue. Temples are places of respectful devotion, but also places to hang around and relax for a while. There is no schedule for when to go to the temple, it seems.

If I got it right, Buddhism is a religion without a God. So I wondered, who do Buddhists pray to? Or do they pray at all? The answer I get from people I talk to in Myanmar is that they do pray. But unlike, say Christians, they do not pray another being. Their prayers are directed to the Buddha within themselves; because Buddhists believe that the enlightened nature of the Buddha is their own real nature which they have not yet reached. So when they pray, it is to that deepest part of themselves. Not to a God who, in concept, exists independently from them. They pray their own selves...

At first, it sounds comprehensible and analogies can be found with other religions (don't many Christians pray to be like Jesus?). But I think that it is deeper than that, with many layers and deep roots into the construction of social norms, neuro-cognitive development, and the power to define one's outlook on the world, determine relationships to others and oneself. At least, that is what I imagine when I look around. Another wonderful invitation to open my mind, listen and learn...

And you, who do you pray to?

MY FIRST THYNGIAN

Kabar Aye Pagoda Road. It's only 9AM, but the party has started!

Watching the mad-wet-fun of thousands of people crowding the streets of Yangon, packed on the water spraying stages or crammed at the back of a pickup truck, dancing and laughing, drenched, soaked, numbed by the loud deep bass techno-trance music... it is hard to imagine that Thingyan originates from the Buddhist version of the Hindu myth where Arsi, the King of Brahmas became Ganesha, after getting decapitated and receiving an elephant's head in place of his human one, which is carried by a new princess Devi each year (hence the annual celebration). The spraying stages are big corporate shows, sponsored by upcoming brands of coffee, energy drinks, mobile networks, airline companies, cars, even the yellow pages get their stand. No Ganesha in the picture for the Water Festival in the modern urbanised Yangon! Being a Buddhist festival, the dates of Thyngian were originally calculated according to the traditional Burmese lunisolar calendar. It is now fixed to the Gregorian calendar and coincides more or less with Easter, and is comparable to other new year festivities in Lao, Cambodia or Songkran Thailand- where i plan to get wet at the same time next year (hoping for a different kind of mad-wet-fun).

A GOAL IN LIFE

On a cold night of December 2013, John Macharia lost all hopes in life. In a desperate urge to end his excruciating sadness, the 28 year old Kenyan throws himself off the seventh floor balcony. At heaven’s gates: “I couldn't cope with seeing my team, Manchester United, lose to Newcastle United again” sobbed the young man to St Peter at Heaven's gates. The following day on Earth, newspaper titled the tragedy “Another Kenyan suicides over English Premier League”.

Kenya’s world reputation for its wildlife is legendary. Yearly, over 100,000 british tourists fly to the country to see the big five: lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, rhinoceros. What wazungus don't know is that millions of Kenyans dream of seeing the English big fours in person; namely: Manchester United, Chelsea, Arsenal and Liverpool. Indeed, any Englishman visiting will be asked at least a dozen times who they support, and will witness how engrained the English Premier League in local Kenyan culture.

One could describe John’s dramatic reaction to Man.United’s loss as, er… extreme. Maybe he gambled all he had on this game; maybe this bad news added to  more personal issues; may be he was too drunk to realise he wouldn't get up from that jump; may be he was simply stupid. Truth is, that night, hundreds of thousands of Kenyan supporters of Manchester United wept.

There is a sort of irrational emotional connection people have with foreign soccer championships here. It baffles me. Could it be that Kenyans have no local leaders worth following as passionately? Could it be that a bunch of millionaires in shorts running after a ball are more interesting than the collective building of one’s nation? What is it? I want to understand. So that John’s death seems less pathetic. So that I can look at soccer fanatics worldwide with more compassion. So that I may watch a game with a bit of excitement. So that I don't lose faith in my fellow humans…

John, there was a life beyond soccer. There were many other goals for you to score. Rest in peace.

I LOVE BENGA!

The classic Benga sound was born in Kenya in the late 70′s. Catchy guitar riff, two part harmonies and gradual progression into pure unadulterated fast dance music.

When Daniel Owino Misiani started playing his songs in local villages in the 60s, he was popular with the school girls and young women. The legend has it that fights broke out amongst the men of the villages keen to impress the large female gatherings that followed him around. On several occasions he was forced to flee the villages after guitars were smashed by angry men and village elders. Misiani, now recognised as “the grandfather of Benga”, died in 2006 in a car crash. He left behind 14 children and two wives…

While listening to his greatest success, you will discover the beautiful characters that he portrays, like in the classic "Alice Atieno" or "Honourable Horace Owiti Ongili".

Listen to samples of the compilation album Benga Blast here.